J'écris à partir de mon lit ce soir, accompagnée de plusieurs piles de mouchoirs et de tasses de tisanes abandonnées mais à moitié pleines (je fais ma difficile - j'aime mon thé CHAUD). Je ne peux pas trop grincer les dents par contre, c'est ma première grippe depuis l'été 2013! Je n'ai guère envie de tricoter en ce moment (c'est un méchant rhume quand on perd le goût pour la laine!). Je vais tenter de compenser pour ma paresse en offrant un autre patron dans la même veine que la semaine dernière : une paire de gants pour garder les mains au chaud lors qu’assise au rouet (ou pas!)
I'm writing from my bed tonight surrounded by piles of kleenex and half-empty tea mugs. I won't complain too much since this is my first real cold since last summer... although here's hoping this one doesn't feel it has to make up for lost time! Since I hardly feel like knitting, I'll make up for it with another pattern and share the little gloves I knit to match Fileuse, a simple fingerless mitt with duplicate stitch saxonies to keep hands warm at the wheel (or anywhere else).
Yarn:
Two colors of fingering weight, sock yarn is great. I used Malabrigo Sock in Natural and Shelridge Soft Touch Ultra. I'm not sure how much of each to be honest, they were bits of leftovers.
Needles:
- A set of US2 DPNs or circular needles to work magic loop
- A set of US3 DPNs or circular needles to work magic loop
Gauge:
7 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch using size US3 needles.
Finished size:
9 inches cast on to cast off. Flat part of the hand: approximately 8 inches circumference.
Pattern:
With color A (CA) and US2 needles, cast on 52 sts, join to work in the round and place marker to mark start of round.
Set-up round for ribbing : *(K2, P2) to end of round.
Next round: begin twisted rib : *(K2TBL, P2) repeat to end of round.
Continue in twisted rib for approx. 4.5 inches.
Switch to US3 needles and work in plain stockinette for 9 rows.
Next round: attach color B (CB) and for ROW 1: *(k1 CA, k1 CB) to the end of round.
ROW 2: *(k1 CB, k1 CA) to the end of round. Repeat these two rows 1 more time.
Next round: Break off CA, and knit 1 round even with CB.
To create the thumb hole, you will now begin to work the piece as though you are knitting flat and not in the round – turning your work at the end of each row (knitting the 52 knit stitches, turning your work at the end of the row, then purling back 52 stitches). Work 15 rows like this (approx. 1.5 inches), thus ending with a knit row.
Join to work in the round again (with the right side facing), and work even for 14 row.
Switch to US2 needles and work in twisted rib for 4 rows, bind off loosely.
To finish the thumb hole: With US2 needles, pick up 28 stitches around the thumb hole. Set-up round for ribbing : *(K2, P2) to end of round.
NEXT ROUND: begin twisted rib : *(K2TBL, P2) repeat to end of round. Work in twisted rib for 3 more rows, then bind off loosely.
Consult wheel chart for placement of duplicate stitch motif.
Don't know how to duplicate stitch? Craftsy has a well-illustrated tutorial here.
I started stitching my wheels 3 rows after the colorwork ends, that way there are three rows after the wheel motif before the ribbing starts, lending the mit a bit of symmetry. Speaking of symmetry, eyeballing the wheel in the centre of each glove was hit or miss for me, that's why the chart I've just created is exactly 26 stitches wide, so that you can place yours much more precisely than I did :)
Don't know how to duplicate stitch? Craftsy has a well-illustrated tutorial here.
I started stitching my wheels 3 rows after the colorwork ends, that way there are three rows after the wheel motif before the ribbing starts, lending the mit a bit of symmetry. Speaking of symmetry, eyeballing the wheel in the centre of each glove was hit or miss for me, that's why the chart I've just created is exactly 26 stitches wide, so that you can place yours much more precisely than I did :)
Of course, if you're not as averse to intarsia as I am, you can knit the colorwork in as you go and I've numbered the rows to make that easier if you choose to go that route.
Long Draw
Wednesday, September 24, 2014
I’ve been geeking over spinning wheels for a decade
now and have wanted a pullover featuring little saxonies for about that long. I
opted for a fingering weight yarn because I wanted to keep the wheels small but
still detailed, and also because of my ridiculous sock yarn stash (have I
mentioned I’ve yet to knit socks?). I didn`t pay enough attention to yarn
amounts, so the amount listed is a guesstimate.
Sizes :
30.75 (34.5, 38, 42) - I am wearing size 30,
with approx. 2 inches of negative ease at the bust. Sleeves are also a bit tight on me.
Yarn and gauge :
Fingering weight yarn with a gauge of 26 sts
and 34 rows per 4 inches.
I used Sweet Georgia Sock Love in Tumbled Stone for
my main colour (MC) and Malabrigo Sock in Natural for my contrast colour (CC).
There was a slight difference in gauge between the two yarns so I actually
suggest to pick a brand and stick with it for the whole sweater.
For the smallest size, I used less than 2 skeins of
the CC and less than 2 skeins of the MC. For the other sizes I suggest at least
2-3 skeins of each colour. I’m sorry I can’t be more precise!
Needles:
US 3 and US 4 circular needles. I love my tiny Hiya
Hiya 9” circular needles for knitting sleeves, but of course magic loop or DPNs
will also do.
Abbreviations:
MC = main colour. This will be the colour of the
body and upper arms.
CC = contrast colour. This will be the colour of
the ribbing and the spinning wheels.
K1tbl = knit 1 though back loop (insert needle from
the front into the back of the stitch and knit)
M1L = make 1 left (pick up strand between stitches
by inserting needle from the front and knit through the back loop)
M1R = make 1 right (pick up strand between stitches
by inserting needle from the back and knit through the front loop)
Notes:
- If the sizes seem a
bit small keep in mind that they are to allow for the negative ease at the
bust.
- This sweater is knit
bottom up so it's not ideal for trying on as you knit. Please note the
measurements for sleeve and body length - I have a long torso and arms for
my height so the suggested lengths may not be right for your own
measurements. Measure twice, knit once (I did not do this, and had to
lengthen the sleeves after the fact… if you squint you can see the wonky
spots where I had to pick up stitches and add a couple inches!)
Body:
With CC and using US 3 needles, cast on 100 (112,
124) stitches, place marker (PM), cast on another 100(112, 124) stitches, PM
and join to work in the round. = 200 (224, 248, 272 sts).
Set-up round for ribbing : *(K2, P2) to end of
round.
Next round: begin twisted rib : *(K2TBL, P2) repeat
to end of round.
Continue in twisted rib for 3.5 ( 3.5, 3.75, 4)
inches.
Next round: change to US needles and work in
stockinette stitch for 1 inch.
Begin colourwork:
Next round: attach MC and for ROW 1: *(k1 MC, k1
CC), repeat from * to the end of round. ROW 2: *(k1 CC, k1 MC), repeat from *
to the end of round. Repeat these two rows 2 more time.
Next round: Break off CC, and knit 1 round even
with MC.
Next round: Begin shaping with a decrease row:
*(k2, SSK, knit 2 4 sts before marker, K2tog, knit 2). Repeat from * once more.
4 sts decreased in round.
Repeat decrease row every 7th row 5 more
times. Knit 6 rounds even.
Next round, time to start increasing again: *(k2,
M1L, knit to 2 stitches before marker, M1R, k2). Repeat from * once more. 4 sts
increased in round.
Repeat increase row every 7th row 5 more
times. You should be back to having 200 (224, 248, 272 sts).
Knit even for 4 inches.
Next: Separate for front and back: *knit to 7
(8, 8, 9) stitches before marker, bind off 14 (16, 16, 18) stitches, repeat
from *. You should have 86 (96, 108, 118) sts for each front and back.
Put aside and cast on for the sleeves.
Sleeves:
With CC, cast on 56 (60, 68, 72) sts using size US
3 needles, place marker and join to work in the round.
Set-up round for ribbing : *(K2, P2) to end of
round.
NEXT ROUND: begin twisted rib : *(K2TBL, P2) repeat
to end of round. Continue in twisted rib for 6”.
Next row: Change to US 4 needles and work in
stockinette for 1 inche.
Increase row : k1, M1L, knit to 1 stitch before
marker, M1R, K1. 58(62, 70, 74) sts.
Knit 2 rows even.
Next round: attach MC and for ROW 1: *(k1 MC, k1
CC) to the end of round. ROW 2: *(k1 CC, k1 MC) to the end of round. Repeat
these two rows 1 more time.
Next round: Break off CC, and knit 1 round even
with MC.
Repeat increase row every 10th row 5
(7, 9, 9 ) more times. 68 (76, 88, 92) sts. Work even until sleeve measures
desired measurement from underarm to wrist. My sleeve is 15 inches.
Next row: *knit to 7 (8, 8, 9) stitches before
marker, bind off 14 (16, 16, 18) stitches, repeat from *. Place remaining 54
(60, 72, 76) sts on holder and set aside.
Joining the sleeves to the body and knitting the
yoke:
With the strand of yarn still attached to the main
body, knit 86 stitches across front, knit 54 (60, 72, 76) sts from one sleeve,
86 (96, 98, 116 ) sts from back piece, and remaining 54 (60, 72, 76) sts
from the other sleeve. You now have 280 ( 312, 360, 388) sts on the needles.
Size 30.75 and Size 38 only : knit 2(4) rounds even. 280(360) sts.
Size 34.5 only: knit 1 round,
increasing 8 stitches evenly spaced. 320 sts. Next row: knit 1 round even.
Size 42 only: knit 1 round, increasing 12 stitches evenly.
400 stitches. Next row: knit 4 rounds even.
All sizes: knit 5 rounds even, then begin spinning
wheel chart.Work rows 1-23 of spinning wheel chart.
Working towards the neckline:
Next round - decrease round: *k3(3,2,2), k2tog,
repeat from * to end of round.
Work 12(15,16,16) rounds even.
Next round – decrease round : *k2(2,1,1), k2tog,
repeat from * to end of round.
Work 6 (14, 15, 16) rounds even.
Now. This is where I did some short row shaping to
bring the back neck up a bit. I'm going to try my best to explain my favourite
method:
Place a marker in the center top of each shoulder.
Pick which side you want to be the back of the sweater. You will work the
short rows between the two markers on that side.
Knit one round, passing the first marker and
knitting up the the second marker. At the marker, wrap and turn.
Now that the wrong side is facing you, purl your
way back to the first marker. Wrap and turn.
Now that the right side is facing you, knit up to 4
stitches before the marker (4 stitches before the first wrap and turn). Wrap
and turn.
With wrong side facing again, purl back to 4
stitches before the marker (again, that's 4 stitches before the wrap and turn),
wrap and turn.
Work back and forth like this, wrapping and turning
always 4 stitches before the last time, until you have raised the back of the
neck to your liking – I did it for approximately 10 rows of knitting, or 1.5”.
With right side facing you, knit 2 rounds, picking
up wrapped stitches as you go.
This web page describes a similar technique and probably does so
much better than I do, so take a look if I've only muddle things up.
Next row: *k1(1,1,2), k2tog, repeat from * to end
of round.
Change to US3 needles (or don’t - I didn’t!) and
work in twisted rib for 1 inch, binding off loosely. Seam underarms. Block.
Like my other “patterns”, Fileuse is free, because:
a) I’m terrible at writing down
directions;
b) I have no test knitters and
only have experience knitting my size;
However, should you knit Fileuse with reasonable
success (in other words – I didn’t lead you down a path of knitter’s
frustration and tears with my blathering and pitiful math) and you feel like
opening your wallet, closet, or pantry after all is said and done, I’d like to
make a suggestion. See, the weather here in Canada is getting wonderfully cool
and crisp, and while part of me is giddy with anticipation (pumpkin scones!
wool everywhere all the time!), I also start to get really anxious for the less
fortunate who will soon be outnumbering the available shelters. If you feel so
inclined, please consider making a donation of time, money or items to a
charity helping the homeless. If you’re in Toronto or the GTA, here is a list of items in need at the Covenant House and here is one for a variety of other organisations including
soup kitchens and drop-in shelters .
A quick Google search should provide similar information for
organisations in your part of the world.
Next week I’ll be posting the pattern for matching
fingerless gloves, if I can get around to photographing them in natural light - I've been getting home from work later and later and daylight is already scarce after 7!
Fileuse
Thursday, September 18, 2014
Pas de tricot cette semaine, mais plutôt quelques mètres de lin tissé au métier et plusieurs images de ce qui doit sûrement être un des plus beaux endroits en Ontario.
No knitting to post this week, but I did manage to weave a few yards of linen and take a few dozen photos (you've been warned!) of what just might be the quaintest spot in Ontario.
Lorsque
je vois des métiers à tisser à vendre pas cher dans les forums je passe
au travers toute d’une gamme d’émotions. Je me sens:
1) immédiatement très tentée de saisir la chance de me procurer un deuxième métier pour beaucoup moins que j’ai payé pour le premier et ainsi être capable d’avoir deux projets en cours;
2) un peu choquée des bas prix réclamés surtout lorsque le métier est tout neuf en boîte;
3) empathique envers les vendeuses qui regrettent ne pas avoir eu le temps de se servir de leur métier, puisque je ne sort le mien qu’une fois par année;
4) honteuse d’avoir même considéré en acheter un deuxième étant donné le numéro 3
Je dois évidemment cesser de fréquenter les forums d’équipement d’occasion…
1) immédiatement très tentée de saisir la chance de me procurer un deuxième métier pour beaucoup moins que j’ai payé pour le premier et ainsi être capable d’avoir deux projets en cours;
2) un peu choquée des bas prix réclamés surtout lorsque le métier est tout neuf en boîte;
3) empathique envers les vendeuses qui regrettent ne pas avoir eu le temps de se servir de leur métier, puisque je ne sort le mien qu’une fois par année;
4) honteuse d’avoir même considéré en acheter un deuxième étant donné le numéro 3
Je dois évidemment cesser de fréquenter les forums d’équipement d’occasion…
I’m
often lurking about the used equipment forums and whenever I spot a
rigid heddle loom for sale I go through a familiar cycle of feeling 1)
tempted to get a second loom so that I can have 2 projects on the go at
the same time 2) shocked at the low prices (compared to what I paid for
mine), especially for those looms that are sold unused and still in box!
3) empathy for the seller who regrets not having the time to use the
loom, seeing as I only take mine out once a year, and 4) shame at even
considering purchasing a second loom, considering number 3. Looks like I
need to stay away from the used equipment forums :p
Cela dit, j’ai sorti le métier en août pour tisser un projet d’été fait de Louet Euroflax Lac: un chemin de table pour une salle à dîner aux couleurs automnales. C’est la première fois que j’utilise le peigne le plus fin pour mon métier, le 12.5 dpi(50/10cm)… En fin de compte, celui-ci n’était pas assez fin, selon moi, pour le fil choisit. Le tissus ne s’est pas assez resserrer après le lavage (quoiqu’il est devenu tout doux!) et si c’était à recommencer, j’aurais garder mes cones de Louet Euroflax Lace pour un tricot out un crochet destiné aux vêtements souples et choisi un cotton ou un lin bien plus épais pour un article de table.
Guilty feelings aside, I did take the loom out a bit earlier than usual this year and teamed the smallest heddle I have (12.5dpi) with some Louet Euroflax Lace to make a table runner that would match the autumnal colours of my mother`s dining room. Since the fabric didn`t full enough to my liking after the wash, I’m not sure I would recommend using the lace yarn for table linens. Although rather too thin and sparse to serve as, say, placemats (my original plan), I WOULD recommend using the Louet Euroflax Lace for a summer garment. After going through the washing machine the fabric softened up so much I hardly recognized it at all!
Le long weekend du mois d’août était comblé de petits voyages et belles images. Un séjour Stratford suivit de Goderich (la reconstruction du centre-ville suite à la tournade de 2011 est impressionnant) avec destination finale à Kincardine, mon nouveau coup de cœur. Une ville (ou plutôt un village?) plutôt huppé grâce au principal employeur de la région (Bruce Nuclear, la plus grande station nucléaire au MONDE - je n’exagère pas, Wikipédia le confirme!) mais aussi historique et bien conservée grâce au potentiel touristique et aux sociétés historiques de la région. Peuplée par des immigrants de l’Irlande et de l’Écosse au 19e siècle lorsque le la Grande Bretagne offrait les terres de cette région gratuitement (avec la condition qu’elle soit devenue rentable en quelques années), l’influence écossaise est toujours très forte. De magnifiques vieux rouets écossais et irlandais se trouvent dans les maisons patrimoniales et un cornemuseur offre un concert du sommet du fort CHAQUE SOIR. C’est tout simplement magique.
The August long weekend was packed with new sights and sounds as DH and I celebrated our 10th wedding anniversary a week early and headed to Stratford, Goderich, and Kincardine (which turns out is pronounced kin-car-dyn, not kin-car-deen, as I'd been merrily mispronouncing all weekend). This historical town appears so well-preserved, well-groomed, immaculately free of litter and brimming with gorgeous restored century homes... It reminded me of idyllic Thomas Kincade paintings...
I wondered about the source of income for the town's relatively small population and the funding for the impressive infrastructure. It turns out that one of the region's main employers is Bruce Power (the largest nuclear plant in the world). Long, long before the plant was built in the 70s however, the area was settle in the mid 1800s when Brittain was giving away Canadian land for free with the condition that it be made profitable within a certain number of years. The Irish and Scottish influence is stll quite strong and magnificant antique spinning wheels can be found in the heritage buildings such as the Walker House and the old light house, which is lovingly preserved and still in use – and totally worth the intimidating climb for a small fee:
The best part : each night, a bagpiper stands on the tiny lighthouse balcony and serenades for a good half hour as the sun sets. It really is magical.
Pas loin de Kincardine se trouve la ferme d’Ann et Eugene Bourgeois, propriétaires de Philosophers Wool. C’était super recevoir une leçon de la méthode de tricot Fair Isle à deux mains directement d’Ann, une dizaine d’années après avoir étudié sa méthode sur une vieille cassette vidéo VHS. Le monsieur est resté longtemps à l'extérieur en amusant le chien pendant que j'admirais la maison et ses divers trésors multicolores tricotés. Une fois que j'aille choisit mes pelotes nous sommes rester pour à jaser avec Eugène au sujet de l'historique de son entreprise et... de philosophie, bien sûr! Un avant-midi mémorable.
Not far from Kincardine is Inverhuron, home of Ann and Eugene Bougeois's impressive Philosopher's Wool farmhouse. How fun to practive my two-handed stranding with Ann at her table (she's a patient teacher), and for DH to play outside with the dog while I agonized over choosing the right skein colours. We stayed for a good while looking at old photos and chatting with Eugene about the fascinating history of their company, and, well, philosophy! To call them lovely people is such an understatement. By the time we left DH was every bit as inspired as I was. Ann has created a gorgeous studio and their beautiful home is filled with beautiful, colourful yarn and projects. I talked myself down to leavng with one sweater's worth of yarn and consoled myself with thoughts of coming back for another visit soon.
Linen, Kincardine & Philosopher's Wool
Tuesday, September 9, 2014
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