English follows French

Je ne sais pas comment vous vous portez habituellement à ce temps de l’année, mais ici il fait finalement un vrai froid d’hiver et les journées semblent encore plus courtes avec si peu de soleil. Plutôt que tricoter sur l’autobus tous les jours je dors tout simplement. Je suis au lit avant 22h tous les soirs. Même mes weekends ne sont pas particulièrement productifs. Mais décembre l’a été, alors il me reste encore un peu de bricolage du temps des fêtes à partager.

Is it just me or does this time of year make you want to huddle under the bed covers and hibernate until spring? Instead of knitting on my daily commute I’ve been snoozing. I’m in bed before 10pm and even my weekends are rather unproductive. So here I am sharing some more of December’s FOs while I wait for my creativity mojo to return.  

Plusieurs semaines après avoir complété le châle je suis toujours follement amoureuse de mon métier Ashford. Reste à voir si je complèterai plusieurs projets d’ici la fin de l’année, puisque j’ai tendance à le sortir de son étui que lors du temps des fêtes, mais je rêve déjà d’un châle XXL composé de deux où trois lanières cousues ensemble. Avant les fêtes j’ai tissé une écharpe pour mon père, la première fois que je lui offre quelque chose que j’ai fait à la main depuis… la petite enfance (si on compte ces fameuses cartes décorées de macaroni!).

It's been weeks since I've finished my handspun, handwoven wrap and I'm still madly in love with my little loom. Time will tell if I actually use it between now and the 2016 holidays (since until recently I only took it out of its case for gift-making) but I'll be surprised if I can wait that long. I recently finished weaving a scarf for my dad, surprisingly the first hand-made item I've gifted him since, well, probably since kindergarten macaroni art!



Mes priorités pour son écharpe étaient qu’elle soit 1) lavable à la machine, 2) aussi douce que possible, et 3) dans des tons soit-disant “masculins” sans être entièrement noire. J'ai utilisé de la laine superwash Sweet Georgia pour les fils de chaîne et pour le fil de trame de l'acrylique (sacrilège!!) noire de Loops & Threads trouvée chez Micheals. Le fil d’acrylique était d’une épaisseur inégale - ce qui m’a beaucoup frustrée tout au long du projet - mais à la fin c’est le manque d’uniformité qui a donné cet effet ombré qui me plait beaucoup! Les lisières n'étaient pas assez droites à mon gout alors je les aie repliées et cousues en place avec la machine à coudre. En fait, j'ai profité de ce projet pour tenter d’améliorer mes lisières au métier. La méthode que j'employais auparavant, celle d'étendre le fil de trame à un angle d'environ 45 degré avant de le rabattre, ne produisait pas des lisières uniformes malgré mes efforts. J'ai lu quelque part que déposer mon fil de trame en forme de petite colline plutôt qu'à la diagonale pourrait aider et en effet j'ai commencé à voir une différence!

I'd set three requirements for the finished scarf: it had to be machine-washable, soft as can be, and have a lot of black. My warp yarns were Sweet Georgia superwash sport yarns (lots of beige and a bit of blue) and the weft was a black Loops & Threads acrylic (gasp!!) I purchased at Michaels after I gave up looking for local soft all-black sock yarn. I can't remember the exact name of it, and while it's incredibly soft I didn't find it all that uniform. But it did the job and lent the scarf a dark and shadowy effect that I quite like. I used the 10 dpi heddle to make sure there was a lot of drape and there is. My selvedges were horrible until the last third, when I changed the way I lay down my weft before beating. I usually lay it down at a 30-40 degree angle but after some really unsatisfactory edges with this project I googled a bit and switch to laying down the weft in the shape of a little "hill". What a difference!



Afterwards I let myself get a little carried away with the terrarium trend and made minis for the entire family. I made a larger one for myself after the holidays and I'm happy to report the plants are still alive a few weeks later. Considering my track record with plants I'm hoping it’s a good omen for 2016!


Ensuite je me suis laissée emportée par la tendance des mini terrariums. J’en ai confectionné pour toute la famille. Quelques jours plus tard je m’en suis fait un également, et je suis fière d’annoncer que la plante est toujours en vie! Un bon début pour 2016 :)


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The Case of the Christmas Sweater


No French post today ; talking about Australian television has me thinking in English!

Over the last few months DH and I rationed the episodes of Miss Fisher’s Murder Mysteries’ second series, knowing it would be a while before Netflix added the 2015 series. I don’t think I’ve wanted two protagonists to declare their love for each other quite this desperately since Mulder and Scully. I’ve yelled at the television in frustration more than once when either character is being unacceptably obtuse (I embrace Phryne’s independance but my goodness she’s blind to Jack’s sorrowful, longing looks!). Anyway, the last episode of the second series came and went too soon and although I was a bit depressed knowing it would be my last Jack & Phryne adventure for a while, the wardrobe department hit it out of the park and cheered me up. Wool and plush velvet and oh boy, Jack’s dashing sweaters. In a few scenes he’s sporting a light grey or cream shawl collared pullover that even prompted a comment from DH : “What do you call a sweater like this one? It’s cool”.

This was the best screen grab I could find of the sweater.

Before the episode was even over I was browsing Ravelry patterns for sweaters with shawl collars and cabled fronts, trying to gauge if I could possibly knit one in less that 3 weeks for Christmas. Then I soberly remembered that Cape Battersea took me nearly 3 months to complete… and hit the stores instead. I found a slim-fitting, light grey waffle-knit wool shawl-collared cardigan in the men’s department, which I nabbed for myself, and a navy blue stockinette one for DH. There are tackier ways to do his and hers, right? I mean shawl-collars cardis are not snowsuits.

DH in his Christmas sweater. He said "don't post that photo I look dopey".
I strongly disagree.

So while I didn’t knit DH’s Christmas sweater, I DID knit him a nifty hat to match. And I’m obviously biased, but I think he looks pretty darn dashing in both.



The pattern is the clever Bubble Star hat by Misa Erder. I’d initially bought the pattern to knit the pom-pom-topped grey and pink version for myself, but knowing it would be a while until I could I cast on in navy and gold for him instead. The yarn is leftover Americo Yarns wool and silk from my Gulls sweater - such a pleasure to work with a cabled yarn again. I wish it weren’t so pricey, otherwise it would probably be my go-to sweater yarn.



I think the hat really is the perfect amount of slouch and the colorwork detail dresses it up a little. I love it and can’t wait to cast on another. I have the yarn picked-out and ready to go, right after I finish a gansey-style shawl I’ve been writing up as I go along.


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We Three Bags

English follows French.


Si j’avais à nommer ma fonction préférée de Ravelry, ce serait probablement la capacité de classer les projets en ordre du plus au moins utile. Les notes et les constats des gens qui ont déjà tenté leur main au patron que je m’apprête à commencer sont indispensables. Je dois essayer de me souvenir de faire cette recherche avant que je monte les mailles pour tout nouveau projet. Heureusement je me suis souvenue de le faire avant de commencer le Sundance Make Up Bag de Joël Meier Rioux; les pages des projets de  Woolbear et Gemmington comptaient une réécriture complète du patron pour le rendre plus clair et net. J’ai combiné leurs instructions pour créer ces trois petits sacs pour maquillage juste à temps pour Noël. Le sac rose est tricoté avec la laine Jaeger Trinity (discontinuée de longue date), un mélange de 40% soie, 35% coton et 25% nylon. Le sac bleu est de fait d’une laine pour bébés en coton dont j’ignore l’origine (ayant perdu les étiquettes) et le gris consiste des restants de la soie utilisée pour mon Battersea Tee. J’ai doublé chacun des sacs avec un tissu de coton avant de les assembler. La seule modification que j’ai apportée était de faire un Twisted Cord plutôt qu’un i-Cord pour la boucle. Tellement plus rapide et tout aussi joli!





There are so many amazing things about Ravelry that I’d have a hard time picking my favourite feature. But if you twisted my arm, I’d probably say the ability to rank project search results by “most helpful”. I try to remember that this should be my first step with each new project, before I even cast on a stitch. I remembered to do this (for once!) when I decided to finally try knitting Joëlle Meier Rioux’s sweet little Sundance Make Up Bag. It had been in my queue ever since my Ravelery invite arrived but there was some criticism floating around about the pattern lacking clarity. When ranking Ravelers’ Sundance Bag projects in order of most helpful, the two at the top actually include two complete rewrites of the pattern (woolbear's Vintage Green Purse and gemmington's Sundance Bag. I combined the instructions to knit these three little pouches. The sandy pink is long-discontinued Jaeger Trinity, a blend of 40% Silk, 35% Cotton and 25% Nylon. The blue is a botton baby yarn whose ballbands disappeared long ago, and the grey is leftover Fiddlesticks Silk Sensations from my Battersea tee. I lined each one with quilting cotton and opted to make twisted cord instead of i-cord for the loops, which is a mod I’m likely to repeat with many future projects. So much easier and faster than i-cord!




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Handwoven Handspun






English follows French

En général, je trouve tous les arts textiles enrichissants. Mais récemment, je passe mes soirées à tisser sur mon Ashford Knitter’s Loom et c’est tellement accrochant - si beaucoup moins portable que le tricot. C’est la première fois que j’entreprends un projet sur le métier fabriqué à 100% de laine que j’ai filée moi-même. J’ai commencé avec 200gr de mohair de Hello Yarn teint dans le coloris « Loch », une merveilleuse combinaison de bleu sarcelle, vert, d’or et de rouille. Le hic était que la fibre est du mohair; je trouve TOUT mohair irritant sur ma peau, même le Kid Silk Haze de Rowan (au grand bonheur de mon portefeuille). Alors pour un des trois écheveaux que j’ai filé pour ce projet, j’ai combiné le mohair avec un mélange de cachemire, soie et mérinos. Mon plaid consiste donc d’un fil à 100% mohair, un fil 50/50 mohair et un fil 100% de cachemire/soie/mérinos. Pendant que je prenais ces photos, il me semblait un peu pesant, hyper chaud et pas mal confortable. Mais je l’ai porté hier pour faire des courses et je me grattais le cou aux 5 minutes! La clé va être de le porter uniquement par-dessus d’autres vêtements, donc autour des épaules, épinglé en place. Et j’ai appris ma leçon : je dois le laisser le mohair pour les autres qui pourront l’apprécier bien mieux que moi.  




I’m pretty sure that all fiber arts are satisfying. But these days all I want to do in the evening is sit down to my Ashford Knitter’s Loom (in fact I’m itching to buy a larger one but common sense is holding me back). Relatively faster than knitting if much less portable, I’m definitely in a weaving phase. I just finished my first entirely handspun, handwoven project, a wrap made from a combination of Hello Yarn mohair in the beautiful Loch colorway and some natural-colored blend of merino silk and cashmere I’d been saving for some time. My (rather naïve) hope was to blend away some of the inherent itchiness of the mohair. Mohair and I just don’t get along. Like, in any form, ever. I can’t even wear Kidsilk Haze against my neck anymore. So I chain plied 100g of the Mohair on itself to keep the color bright, but plied another 100g with the merino blend, and finally spun a 3 skein of the just merino blend. And for a while there, while I was taking these photos, I thought that mixed together as a plaid the itch factor was tolerable. The wrap has a real heft to it and lots of drape, which I love. Only out in the real world while doing my regular Sunday shopping I caught myself scratching at my neck every few minutes. So there you have it: you can bring this girl to mohair but you can’t make her wear it. At least not directly against the skin, anyway. Not that I won’t stop trying :p









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Cape Battersea



(English follows French)

Je ne prends pas toujours ma pause déjeuner au travail (c’est tellement tentant de manger à son bureau au-dessus du clavier) mais aujourd’hui je suis assise dans la cafétéria avec mon portable pour poster au sujet de mon nouveau chandail (cape? poncho?) que j’ai d’ailleurs présentement sur le dos. C’est rare que je porte un chandail tricoté au travail, encore moins mon propre design, mais je suis tellement ravie avec celui-ci, pas question que je le laisse à la maison. Si je suis chanceuse une collègue me prêtera un compliment et pour une fois je serai en mesure de répondre "OUI!!" lorsqu'on me demande si c'est moi qui ai tricoté mon chandail.
Je me suis mise à danser comme une folle hier soir après l’avoir enfilé pour la première fois. Bien sûr, quelques photos plus tard et certains détails m’embêtent un peu :
  • Le col bateau est un peu trop large à mon gout. Si vous suivez mes instructions à la lettre, le vôtre le sera probablement aussi. Super si vous aimez porter vos pulls avec une épaule dégagée, mais autrement faudra peut-être rétrécir le col.
  • Impossible d’enfiler un manteau par-dessus! 
  • Un fil foncé (et bigarré en plu!) dissimule la texture des points gansey
  • La forme n’est pas exactement pratique. Le mouvement des bras est… restreint. Je comprends que le style ne plait pas à tout le monde. Le monsieur m’a regardé de travers pendant que je tournoyais devant lui pour lui montrer mon chef d’œuvre.  Bon. Les gouts ne se discutent pas! 
  • J’ai manqué de fil! Je n’avais acheté que 5 écheveaux de Malabrigo et je n’ai pas eu assez de fil pour avoir des « manches » aussi longue que j’aurais voulu.

Les différences entre ce pull et mon t-shirt Battersea sont assez nombreuses qu’un nouveau texte était mérité (an anglais seulement, désolée). 






I’m guilty of eating at my desk most days at work but today I’m taking a real McCoy lunch break in the food court with my laptop in order to write about my new sweater (cape? sweater cape? poncho with sleeves? whatever I love it.). I'm wearing it right now and hoping against all hope that a co-worker will comment today, because if I got a dollar every time someone said "nice sweater, did you knit this one?" and I answered "oh no... *grumble brumble*... storebought..." I'd be yarn-rich. Ok, my conscience points out that the size of my stash proves this is already the case and that I'm wasting precious lunch time. So anyway, when I cast off and tried it on last night I squealed a good bit, did a little dance, then steamed it quickly to take some photos. (TMI: Usually I’ll at least wash my hair and put in contacts before modelling an FO. That’s how eager I was get in some snaps before bed: unwashed messy bun and operating legally blind). Of course, after a while I spotted some things about the sweater-cape that bug me:
  • The boat neck is probably too wide. So if you follow my instructions to the letter, yours will be too. I suppose it might look sultry/carefree if pulled to the side and worn off one shoulder but that's not what I was going for.
  • It’s impossible to wear a coat over this!!
  • The dark, tonal yarn hides the decorative stitches. I love this green, but if I were to start over I’d pick a lightr shade in classic cream or grey.
  • The shape isn’t exactly the most practical since arm movement is… restricted. DH looked at me funny while I twirled in my sweater and ordered him to admire my master piece: "how do you move your arms?"
  • I ran out of yarn! I had bought 5 skeins of Rios and ran out while knitting the cuffs, so they’re a little short for my taste. 
Essentially, this is an experiment in what happens if you continue with the increases of the Battersea tee all the way down to your waist. But the differences between the original tee and this somewhat extreme modification warranted a separate set of instructions, so here you go. Attempt with caution though, I really made this up as I went along and I imagine some might like a narrower collar and wider “batwings” for more arm movement.
A note about sizing: Sizes are based on the wearer’s bust measurement, not the sweater’s, which is considerably larger because all of this positive ease is required to be able to move the arms (well, at least a little!). Although my actual bust measurement is 34”, I knit size 35.5 for extra breathing room. Thankfully the top-down construction makes it easy enough to try on as you go – just transfer the stitches onto two pairs of circular needles with long (100cm+) cords and over the head it goes. And as always, if you you knit the sweater and would like to give back, please consider making a small donation to your local food bank or women’s shelter. Thank you!


Cape Battersea

Needles:
- US5 DPNs or short circular needles for the collar
- US 7 circular needles for the body
- US 7 DPNs for the cuffs (or circular needle to work magic loop)

Yarn:
- For sizes 34 : 5 skeins of Malabrigo Rios or 1050 yards of worsted weight yarn. For size 35.5, I used *exactly 5* skeins, so it would be wise to have 6 on hand. For other sizes, your guess is as good as mine, sorry!

Sizes: (wearer’s bust measurement): 34 (35.5, 37, 39, 41, 42.5).

Gauge :
- 19 sts and 25 rows per 4” square *after blocking*. I alternated between English and continental knitting which makes my gauge a bit inconsistent throughout. I counted 19sts/ 4" in some spots, 20-21 sts / 4“ in others. Thankfully the oversized shape is forgiving.

Instructions :
With US5 needles, cast on 136, (144, 144, 152, 160, 168) sts and join to work in the round, placing marker to mark beginning of wound. Work in twisted rib as follows:
Round 1 (set-up round) : (k1, p1) to end.
Round 2 and all further rounds of ribbing : (k1 tbl, p1) to end.
Work in twisted rib for 1.25 inches.
Change to US7 needles. Working in twisted rib for one more round, place markers as follows : Work 43 (45, 47, 49, 51, 53) sts, PM, work 25, (27, 29, 31, 33, 35) sts, PM, work 43, (45, 47, 49, 51, 53) sts, PM, work remaining 25, (27, 29, 31, 33, 35) st.
Begin working gansey pattern:
Round 1 : purl row - as evenly as possible across this row, increase a total of 0, (0, 8, 8, 8, 8) sts.
Round 2 : purl to end.
Round 3 (increase round) : kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, k to 1 stitch before next marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, k to 1 stitch before next marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, k to 1 stitch before next marker, kfb.
Round 4: knit.
Round 5 : purl.
Round 6 : (increase round) pfb, p to 1 st before marker, pfb, move marker, pfb, p to 1 stitch before next marker, pfb, move marker, pfb, p to 1 stitch before next marker, pfb, move marker, pfb, p to 1 stitch before next marker, pfb.
Round 7 : knit.
Round 8 : This is where the first textured stitch pattern begins. Basically for this stitch pattern you will be working (k2, p2) across the first round, and for every consecutive round you will want to knit the purl stitches and purl the knit stitches. Think of moss or seed stitch, just a bit more exaggerated. With each increase round, simply incorporate the new stitches into the stitch pattern. (k2, p2) to 3 sts before marker, k2, p1, move marker, (k2, p2) to 1 st before marker, k1, move marker, (k2, p2) to 3 sts before marker, k2, p1, move marker,  (k2, p2) to 1 st before marker, k1.
Round 9 : knit.
Round 10 : (increase round)  kfb, k3, (p2, k2) to 3 sts before marker, p2, kfb, mover marker, kfb, k3,  (p2, k2) to 1 sts before marker, kfb, mover marker, kfb, k3, (p2, k2) to 3 sts before marker, p2, kfb,  mover marker, kfb, k3,  (p2, k2) to 1 sts before marker, kfb.
Round 11 : knit.
Round 12 : k3,  (p2, k2) to 2 sts before marker, p2, move marker, k3  (p2, k2) to marker, move marker, k3, (p2, k2) to 2 sts before marker,  p2, move marker, k3 (p2, k2) to end.
Round 13 :  (increase round)  kfb, k to 1 sts from marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, k to 1 sts from marker, kfb, move marker, kfb,  k to 1 sts from marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, k to 1 sts before marker, kfb.
Round 14 : (k2, p2) to 3 sts from marker, k2, p1, move marker, (k2, p2) to 1 sts from marker, k1, move marker, (k2, p2) to 3 sts from marker, k2, p1, move marker, (k2, p2) to one sts before marker, k1.
Round 15 : knit.
Round 16 : (increase round) kfb, k3, (p2, k2) to 3 sts before marker, p2, kfb, mover marker, kfb, k3, (p2, k2) to 1 sts before marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, k3, (p2, k2) to 3 sts before marker, p2, kfb, move marker, kfb, k3, (p2, k2) to 1 sts before marker, kfb.
Round 17 : knit.
Round 18 : k3, (p2, k2) to 2 stitches before marker, p2, move marker, k3, (p2, k2) to marker, move marker, k3, (p2, k2) to 2 stitches before marker, p2, move marker, k3, (p2, k2) to end.
Round 19 : (increase round) kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, k to 1 stitch before next marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, k to 1 stitch before next marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, k to 1 stitch before next marker, kfb.
Rounds 20 AND 21 : purl.
Round 22 :  (increase round) kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, k to 1 stitch before next marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, k to 1 stitch before next marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, k to 1 stitch before next marker, kfb.
Round 23 : knit.
Round 24 : purl.
Round 25 :  (increase round) pfb, p to 1 st before marker, pfb, move marker, pfb, p to 1 stitch before next marker, pfb, move marker, pfb, p to 1 stitch before next marker, pfb, move marker, pfb, p to 1 stitch before next marker, pfb.
Round 26 : knit.
Round 27 (seed stitch begins): (k1, p1) to 1 sts before next marker, k1, move marker, (k1, p1) to 1 sts before next marker, k1, move marker, (k1, p1) to 1 sts before next marker, k1, move marker, (k1, p1) to 1 sts before next marker, k1.
Round 28 : (increase round)  kfb, work in seed stitch (purling the previous row’s knit stitches and knitting the purl stitches) to 1 st before next marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, work in seed stitch to 1 st before next marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, work in seed stitch to 1 st before next marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, work in seed st to 1 st before end, kfb.
Round 29 : Work in seed stitch.
Round 30 : Work in seed stitch.
Round 31 : (increase round) kfb, work in seed stitch (purling the previous row’s knit stitches and knitting the purl stitches) to 1 st before next marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, work in seed stitch to 1 st before next marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, work in seed stitch to 1 st before next marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, work in seed st to 1 st before end, kfb.
Round 32 : Work in seed stitch.
Round 33 : Work in seed stitch.
Round 34 : (increase round)  kfb, work in seed stitch (purling the previous row’s knit stitches and knitting the purl stitches) to 1 st before next marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, work in seed stitch to 1 st before next marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, work in seed stitch to 1 st before next marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, work in seed st to 1 st before end, kfb.
Round 35 : Work in seed stitch.
Round 36 : Work in seed stitch.
Round 37 :  (increase round)  kfb, work in seed stitch (purling the previous row’s knit stitches and knitting the purl stitches) to 1 st before next marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, work in seed stitch to 1 st before next marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, work in seed stitch to 1 st before next marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, work in seed st to 1 st before end, kfb.
Round 38 :  Work in seed stitch.


**Stitch count between markers at this point should be : 67, (69, 71, 73, 75, 77) each front and back / 49, (51, 53, 55, 57, 59)  each sleeve. 232 (240, 248, 256, 264, 272) sts on the needles in total. There have been 88 (88, 96, 96, 96, 96) st increased since cast-on. Round 35: knit.
Rounds 36: (increase round) pfb, p to 1 st before marker, pfb, move marker, pfb, p to 1 stitch before next marker, pfb, move marker, pfb, p to 1 stitch before next marker, pfb, move marker, pfb, p to 1 stitch before next marker, pfb.
Round 37: purl.
Round 38: knit.
Round 39: (increase round) kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, k to 1 stitch before next marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, k to 1 stitch before next marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, k to 1 stitch before next marker, kfb. Stitch count between markers at this point :  71, (73, 75, 77, 79, 81) each front and back / 53, (55, 57, 59, 61, 63) each sleeve.  = 248 (256, 264, 272, 280, 288).   Round 40: purl.
Round 41: purl.
Round 42: (increase round) kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, k to 1 stitch before next marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, k to 1 stitch before next marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, k to 1 stitch before next marker, kfb. Stitch count between markers:  73, (75, 77, 79, 81, 83) each front and back / 55, (57, 59, 61, 63, 65) each sleeve.  = 256 (264, 272, 280, 288, 296) sts total.
Rounds 43-54 : work Parallelogram Chart. No increases.
Round 55 :  (increase round) kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, k to 1 stitch before next marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, k to 1 stitch before next marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, k to 1 stitch before next marker, kfb. Stitch count between markers : 75, (77, 79, 81, 83, 85) each front and back / 57, (59, 61, 63, 65, 67) each sleeve. = 264(272, 280, 288, 296, 304) sts total.
Round 56: purl.
Round 57 : purl
Rounds 58: (increase round) kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, k to 1 stitch before next marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, k to 1 stitch before next marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, k to 1 stitch before next marker, kfb. Stitch count between markers : 77, (79, 81, 83, 85, 87) each front and back / 59, (61, 63, 65, 67, 69) each sleeve.= 272 (280, 288, 296, 304, 312) sts total.
Round 59: knit
Rounds 60 AND 61: purl.
Round 62 : (increase round) kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, k to 1 stitch before next marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, k to 1 stitch before next marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, k to 1 stitch before next marker, kfb. Stitch count between markers : 79, (81, 83, 85, 87, 89) each front and back / 61, (63, 65, 67, 69, 71) each sleeve. = 280 (288, 296, 304, 312, 320) sts total.
Rounds 63-73: work Arrow Chart.
Round 74: (increase round) kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, k to 1 stitch before next marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, k to 1 stitch before next marker, kfb, move marker, kfb, k to 1 stitch before next marker, kfb. Stitch count between markers : 81 (83, 85, 87, 89, 91) each front and back / 63 (65, 67, 69, 71, 73) each sleeve. = 288 (296, 304, 312, 320, 328) sts total.
Rounds 75-76 : purl.
Rounds 77-78: knit.
Rounds 79-80: purl.


Work in stockinette stitch repeating the increase row every 15th row, 3 times. (45 rounds worked).
Stitch count: 87 (89, 91, 93, 95, 97) each front and back / 69 (71, 73, 75, 77, 79). = 312 (320, 328, 336, 344, 352) sts total.

(The sweater will look pretty huge at this point, but because we’re not separating for the arms we need all of this fabric to avoid being swaddled Think batwings, not straight-jacket :)

Create arm/cuff holes:
On the next round, k87 (89, 91, 93, 95, 97) body stitches to the first marker, move marker, k16 (17, 18, 18, 19, 19), place 37 (37, 37, 38, 39, 40) stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn, k16 (17, 18, 19, 19, 20), mover marker, knit the  87 (89, 91, 93, 95, 97) body stitches to the next marker, k16 (17, 18, 19, 19, 19), place 37 (37, 37, 38, 39, 40) stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn, k16 (17, 18, 18, 19, 20).
Stitch count on your needles is now: 238 (246, 254, 260, 266, 272) sts.
Continue working in the round, repeating increase round every 15th round, twice (30 rounds worked.) 254 (262, 270, 276, 282, 288) sts .
Work one round more, inc 2 (2, 2, 0, 2, 0) sts evenly throughout the round. 256 (264, 272, 276, 284, 288). We did this so that the total number of stitches can be worked in groups of 4 for the 2x2 twisted rib we’re about to knit!


Begin working in 2x2 twisted rib (k2tbl, p2). I continued using the US 7 needles because I wanted the ribbing to be more of a loose textural feature, I wanted to keep the bottom loose and flowy. Work in twisted rib ro desired length (I did 2 ½ inches).
Bind off using the Jeny’s surprisingly stretchy bind off. THIS IS KEY!! A regular bind off would create a tight band at the bottom giving the sweater more of a balloon shape. 

Here are excellent written instruction on the stretchy bind off:
http://knitty.com/ISSUEfall09/FEATjssbo.php

And here is a video demonstration:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53Mtbkyf5CQ


Pick up armholes to knit cuffs:
Transfer live armhole stitches to double pointe needles. Attach yarn and pick up stitches along the  gap. I picked up 9 stitches to bring my total cuff stitch count to 46. Pick up more stitches for a more generous fitting cuff, but I like mine snug.
Work in 1x1 twisted rib (k1tbl, p1) for desired cuff length. Mine are 17 rounds long. Again, mind off using Jeny’s stretchy mind off. 
Weave in ends and block as gently or as aggressively as you need. I used my steamer because I was impatient, but I might wet-block next time to gain a few inches of ease around the waist and cuffs.





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Free Pattern / Patron gratuit : Cadboro Mitts

I'll get to these in a minute...


I’m going to overshare for a minute here AND whine about a first-world problem of mine (lucky you!)  My arthritis has gotten worse and I can no longer wear cute shoes. Walking in even the most boat-like orthopedic sneakers (the ones with the velcro closures, people – VELCRO!) hurts my feet.  I’m quite vain so I’ll occasionally still wear the shoes or boots I can’t bear to give away, take some NSAIDS and pop the heating pad in the microwave.  And then as I walk gingerly on my privileged 30-something achy joints on a cold and rainy Toronto morning I pass people wrapped in sleeping bags wearing plastic bags over their feet and nothing on their painful arthritic hands. Toronto is a great city and I’m so greateful that I’ve had reason to commute daily to the downtown core for 4 years now. But after all this time my heart doesn’t break any less at the contrast of fancy wing-tip leather shoes walking past a paper collection cup.

J’aimerais prendre un moment pour prêter la parole à mon petit côté pleurnichard et me plaindre d’un bobo à la fois anodin et insignifiant. Mon arthrite a pris un mauvais tournant récemment et je n’arrive plus à porter des souliers tendance. Marcher dans les souliers les plus orthopédiques (même ceux  avec bandes de velcro à la place de lacets!) est devenu inconfortable. La vanité me convainc parfois à porter un talon tout de même, gobant de l’ibuprofène d’une main et plaçant le coussin chauffant dans le four à micro-onde de l’autre. Et c’est en marchant délicatement sur mes articulations enflées  vers le bureau à Toronto que je croise régulièrement des gens sur le trottoir avec rien qu’un sac de couchage, les pieds recouverts de sacs de plastique et rien du tout pour réchauffer leurs mains arthritiques. Ça fait 4 ans maintenant que je me rends quotidiennement au centre-ville et mon cœur ne se fend pas moins chaque fois que j’aperçois le contraste cruel de souliers en cuir italien passant tout droit à côté d’un gobelet en carton d’un sans-abri.




Have you heard of Chase the Chill? It’s yarn bombing with a philanthropic twist. Handknits are hung across the city with tags that say something along the lines of “I’m not lost. If you are cold, I’m yours. I was made for you to take.” There are chapters all over Canada and the U.S., even as far as England and Australia! For more information on Chase The Chill, you can go to www.chasethechill.com. And if you’re looking for a free pattern to knit up a pair of mitts for charity, you’re welcomed to this one. Cadboro Mitts are based on my Cadboro Tam and while far from perfect (some pretty inelegant decreases, for one) they have a pretty neat texture; the garter stitch makes them stretchy and rather warm.

Connaissez-vous Chase the Chill? C’est du tricot-graffiti à saveur philanthropique. Des items tricotés sont accrochés un peu partout à travers la ville avec des étiquettes invitant ceux qui en ont besoin à s’en servir. Il existe des filiales un peu partout au Canada et aux États-Unis et il y en a même en Angleterre et en Australie! Et si vous cherchez un patron de mitaines gratuit pour tricoter pour les plus démunis je vous propose celui-ci (en anglais seulement pour l’instant, désolée). Le design est inspiré du béret Cadboro et donne une mitaine à la fois élastique et bien chaude grâce au point mousse.  J’avoue que les diminutions ne sont pas très sophistiquées mais ces petites noppes délicates m’apportent tant de bonheur!



Cadboro Mitts

Size : One size. Fits a woman’s large hands. Go up or down needle sizes and yarn grist for a larger or a smaller mitten.

Materials:

- Worsted weight yarn, approximately 200 yards. I used the lovely Buckaloo View Worsted, this one is naturally dyed a soft celery green shade with hollyhock.
- Size US5 (3.75mm) double pointed needles
- Size US6 (4mm) double pointed needles
- 3 stitch markers (it is helpful if two are of the same color to mark thumb gusset and one of a different color to mark beginning of row)
- Tapestry needle

Gauge:

21 sts and 20 rows over 10 inches square in stockinette stitch using larger needles.

Abbreviations:

k: knit
p: purl
kfb: knit in the front and back of the same stitch
pfp: purl in the front and back of the same stitch
k2tog: knit two stitches together
p2tog: purl two stitches together
pm: place marker
sm: slip marker
sl: slip
st(s): stitch(es)
 (sl3, p1, psso) : slip 3 stitches purlwise, p1, pass the 3 slipped stitches one at a time over the last purled stitch
(sl3, k1, psso) : slip 3 stitches knitwise, k1, pass the 3 slipped stitches one at a time over the last knit stitch

Important notes:

There are differences between the right and the left mitten.

For the right mitten
- The wrong side will be facing you as you work;
- The first round of a mini bobble row will be on a purl round;
- When the mitten is finished, it needs to be turned inside out.
For the left mitten:
- The right side will be facing you as you work;
- The first round of a mini bobble row will be on a knit round;
- When the mitten is finished, do not turn it inside out.


Instructions

Right Mitten:

Using US 5 (3.75mm) double pointed needles, cast on 38 stitches. Being careful not to twist, join to work in the round. Place marker to mark beginning of round. Work in (k1, p1) rib for 18 rounds or approximately 2.5 inches.
Change to US6 DPNS and:

Round 1: purl.
Round 2: kfb in the first st, then knit to end of round. 39 sts.
Round 3: purl
Round 4: k1, pm, kfb, k1, pm, knit to end of round. 40 sts.
Round 5: purl
Round 6: knit                   
Round 7: purl to 2nd marker, move marker, (k1, p1, k1, p1) into next stitch, p11, (k1, p1, k1, p1) in next stitch, p11, (k1, p1, k1, p1) in next stitch, p11.
Round 8: k1, m, kfb, k1, kfb, m, (sl3, k1, psso), k11, (sl3, k1, psso), k11, (sl3, k1, psso), k11.
Rounds 9-11: work in garter stitch (purl one round, knit one round, purl one round).
Round 12: k1, m, kfb, k3, kfb, m, knit to end.
Rounds 13-15: work in garter stitch (purl one round, knit one round, purl one round).
Round 16: k1, m, kfb, k5, kfb, m, knit to end.
Round 17: p to 2nd marker, m, p6, (k1, p1, k1, p1) in next stitch, p11, (k1, p1, k1, p1) in next stitch, p11, (k1, p1, k1, p1) in next stitch, p5.
Round 18: k to 2nd marker, m, k6, (sl3, k1, psso), k11, (sl3, k1, psso), k11, (sl3, k1, psso), k5.
Round 19: purl
Round 20:  k1, m, kfb, k7, kfb, m, knit to end.
Round 21-23: work in garter stitch (purl one round, knit one round, purl one round).
Round 24:  k1, m, kfb, k9, kfb, m, knit to end
Round 25: purl
Round 26: knit
Round 27: p to 2nd marker, (k1, p1, k1, p1) in next stitch, p11, (k1, p1, k1, p1) in next stitch, p11, (k1, p1, k1, p1) in next stitch, p11.
Round 28: k1, m, kfb, k11, kfb, m, (sl3, k1, psso), k11, (sl3, k1, psso), k11, (sl3, k1, psso), k11.
Round 29: purl.
Round 30: knit.
Round 31: p1, place 15 thumb sts between markers on a stitch holder, p to end.
Rounds 32-36: continue working in garter stitch
Round 37: p7, (k1, p1, k1, p1) in next stitch, p11, (k1, p1, k1, p1) in next stitch, p11, (k1, p1, k1, p1) in next stitch, p5.
Round 38: k7,  (sl3, k1, psso), k11, (sl3, k1, psso), k11, (sl3, k1, psso), k5.
Rounds 39-46: continue working in garter stitch.
Round 47: p1, (k1, p1, k1, p1) in next stitch, p11, (k1, p1, k1, p1) in next stitch, p11, (k1, p1, k1, p1) in next stitch, p11.
Round 48: k1, (sl3, k1, psso), k11, (sl3, k1, psso), k11, (sl3, k1, psso), k11.
Rounds 49-56: continue working in garter stitch
Round 57: As round 37
Round 58: As round 38
Rounds 59-66: continue working in garter stitch
Round 67: as round 47
Round 68: as round 48
Round 69: (k2, k2tog) to end of round, k1.
Round 70: purl
Round 60: (k2, k2tog) to end of round
Round 61: purl.
Round 62: (k2, k2tog) to end of round, k1.
Round 63: purl
Round 64: (k2tog) to end of round
Cut yarn, with tapestry needle draw yarn through remaining 11 sts and pull to close.

Thumb:

Transfer stitches from stitch holder onto US6 DPNs and join yarn.
Knit one round, making sure to pick up 3 stitches along the gap where the thumb joins the mitten. 18 sts.
Work in garter stitch for 18 rounds. Try on mitten to make sure thumb is nearly covered.
Begin decreasing:
Round 1: (k2, k2tog) to the last two stitches, k2.
Round 2: purl.
Round 3:  (k2, k2tog) to end.
Round 4: purl.
Round 5: k2tog to end.
Cut yarn, with tapestry needle draw yarn through remaining stitches and pull to close.
** Weave in ends then TURN MITTEN INSIDE-OUT. **

Left Mitten:

Using US 5 (3.75mm) double pointed needles, cast on 38 stitches. Being careful not to twist, join to work in the round. Place marker to mark beginning of round. Work in (k1, p1) rib for 18 rounds or approximately 2.5 inches.

Change to US6 needles and :

Round 1: kfb in the first st, then knit to end of row. 39 sts.
Round 2: purl
Round 3: knit
Round 4: p1, pm, kfb, p1, pm, purl to end of round. 3 sts between markers, 40 stitches total.
Round 5: knit
Round 6: purl
Row 7: k to 2nd marker, m, (k1,p1,k1,p1) in next stitch, k11, (k1,p1,k1,p1) in next stitch, k11,
(k1,p1,k1,p1) in next stitch, k11
Row 8: p1, m, pfb, p1, pfb, m, (sl3, p1, psso), p11, (sl3, p1, psso), p11,  (sl3, p1, psso), p11.
Rows 9-11: continue to work in garter stitch (knit one round, purl one round, knit one round).
Row 12: p1, m, pfb, p3, pfb, m, p to end.
Rows 13-15: continue to work in garter stitch (knit one round, purl one round, knit one round).
Row 16: p1, m, pfb, p5, pfb, m, p to end.
Row 17: k to 2nd marker, k6, (k1,p1,k1,p1) in next stitch, k11, (k1,p1,k1,p1) in next stitch, k11, (k1,p1,k1,p1) in next stitch, k5.
Row 18: p to 2nd marker, p6, (sl3, p1, psso), p11, (sl3, p1, psso), p11,  (sl3, p1, psso), p5.
Row 19: knit
Row 20: p1, m, pfb, p7, pfb, m, p to end.
Rows 21-23: continue to work in garter stitch (knit one round, purl one round, knit one round).
Row 24: p1, m, pfb, p9, pfb, m, p to end.
Row 25: knit
Row 26: purl
Row 27: k to 2nd marker, (k1,p1,k1,p1) in next stitch, k11, (k1,p1,k1,p1) in next stitch, k11,
(k1,p1,k1,p1) in next stitch, k11.
Row 28: p1, m, pfb, p11, pfb, m, (sl3, p1, psso), p11, (sl3, p1, psso), p11, (sl3, p1, psso), p11.
Row 29: knit
Row 30: purl
Row 31: knit 1, remove marker, place 15 stitches on stitch holder, knit to end of round.
Rounds 32-36: continue working in garter stitch.
Row 37: k7, (k1,p1,k1,p1) in next stitch, knit 11, (k1,p1,k1,p1) in next stitch, knit 11, (k1,p1,k1,p1) in next stitch, knit 5.
Row 38: p6, (sl3, p1, psso), p11, (sl3, p1, psso), p11, (sl3, p1, psso), p5.
Rounds 39-46: continue working in garter stitch.
Row 47: k1, (k1,p1,k1,p1) in next stitch, knit 11, (k1,p1,k1,p1) in next stitch, knit 11, (k1,p1,k1,p1) in next stitch, knit 11.
Row 48: p1, (sl3, p1, psso), p11, (sl3, p1, psso), p11, (sl3, p1, psso), p11.
Rounds 49-56: continue working in garter stitch.
Round 57: As round 37.
Round 58: As round 38
Rounds 59-66: continue working in garter stitch.
Round 67: as round 47
Round 68: as round 48.
Round 69: (p2, p2tog) to end of round, p1.
Round 70: knit
Round 60: (p2, p2tog) to end of round.
Round 61: knit
Round 62: (p2, p2tog) to end of round, p1.
Round 63: knit
Round 64: (p2tog) to end of round.
Cut yarn, with tapestry needle draw yarn through remaining 11 sts and pull to close.

Thumb:

Transfer stitches from stitch holder onto US6 DPNs and join yarn.
Purl one round, making sure to pick up 3 stitches along the gap where the thumb joins the mitten. 18 sts.
Work in garter stitch for 18 rounds. Try on mitten to make sure thumb is nearly covered.
Begin decreasing:
Round 1: (p2, p2tog) to the last two stitches, p2.
Round 2: knit
Round 3:  (p2, p2tog) to end.
Round 4: knit
Round 5: p2tog to end.
Cut yarn, with tapestry needle draw yarn through remaining stitches and pull to close. Weave on ends.



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Valérie:

Knitter, spinner, occasional quilter, wannabe weaver, and incurable procrastinator.

Tricoteuse, fileuse, courtepointière et tisserande avec une tendance dangereuse à la procrastination

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