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Wednesday, September 24, 2014

Long Draw

J'écris à partir de mon lit ce soir, accompagnée de plusieurs piles de mouchoirs et de tasses de tisanes abandonnées mais à moitié pleines (je fais ma difficile - j'aime mon thé CHAUD). Je ne peux pas trop grincer les dents par contre, c'est ma première grippe depuis l'été 2013! Je n'ai guère envie de tricoter en ce moment (c'est un méchant rhume quand on perd le goût pour la laine!). Je vais tenter de compenser pour ma paresse en offrant un autre patron dans la même veine que la semaine dernière : une paire de gants pour garder les mains au chaud lors qu’assise au rouet (ou pas!)

I'm writing from my bed tonight surrounded by piles of kleenex and half-empty tea mugs. I won't complain too much since this is my first real cold since last summer... although here's hoping this one doesn't feel it has to make up for lost time! Since I hardly feel like knitting, I'll make up for it with another pattern and share the little gloves I knit to match Fileuse, a simple fingerless mitt with duplicate stitch saxonies to keep hands warm at the wheel (or anywhere else).






Yarn: 
Two colors of fingering weight, sock yarn is great. I used Malabrigo Sock in Natural and Shelridge Soft Touch Ultra. I'm not sure how much of each to be honest, they were bits of leftovers.

Needles:
- A set of US2 DPNs or circular needles to work magic loop
- A set of US3 DPNs or circular needles to work magic loop

Gauge:
7 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch using size US3 needles.

Finished size:
9 inches cast on to cast off. Flat part of the hand: approximately 8 inches circumference.




Pattern:

With color A (CA) and US2 needles, cast on 52 sts, join to work in the round and place marker to mark start of round. 

Set-up round for ribbing : *(K2, P2) to end of round.
Next round: begin twisted rib : *(K2TBL, P2) repeat to end of round.
Continue in twisted rib for approx. 4.5 inches.

Switch to US3 needles and work in plain stockinette for 9 rows.

Next round: attach color B (CB) and for ROW 1: *(k1 CA, k1 CB) to the end of round. 
ROW 2: *(k1 CB, k1 CA) to the end of round. Repeat these two rows 1 more time. 

Next round: Break off CA, and knit 1 round even with CB. 

To create the thumb hole, you will now begin to work the piece as though you are knitting flat and not in the round – turning your work at the end of each row (knitting the 52 knit stitches, turning your work at the end of the row, then purling back 52 stitches). Work 15 rows like this (approx. 1.5 inches), thus ending with a knit row.

Join to work in the round again (with the right side facing), and work even for 14 row. 

Switch to US2 needles and work in twisted rib for 4 rows, bind off loosely.

To finish the thumb hole: With US2 needles, pick up 28 stitches around the thumb hole. Set-up round for ribbing : *(K2, P2) to end of round.
NEXT ROUND: begin twisted rib : *(K2TBL, P2) repeat to end of round. Work in twisted rib for 3 more rows, then bind off loosely.

Consult wheel chart for placement of duplicate stitch motif. 
Don't know how to duplicate stitch? Craftsy has a well-illustrated tutorial here
I started stitching my wheels 3 rows after the colorwork ends, that way there are three rows after the wheel motif before the ribbing starts, lending the mit a bit of symmetry. Speaking of symmetry, eyeballing the wheel in the centre of each glove was hit or miss for me, that's why the chart I've just created is exactly 26 stitches wide, so that you can place yours much more precisely than I did :)

Of course, if you're not as averse to intarsia as I am, you can knit the colorwork in as you go and I've numbered the rows to make that easier if you choose to go that route. 






Thursday, September 18, 2014

Fileuse




Je rêvais depuis longue date de me tricoter un pull parsemé de petits rouets. Loin d’être à la mode, celui-aurait tout de même une forme féminine, de style traditionnel.  J’ai utilisé une laine fine car je voulais garder les rouets petits mais détaillés. Je n’étais pas assez attentive aux montants de laine utilisés, alors je ne peux qu’estimer.  Le patron est en anglais puisque je n’ai toujours pas les compétences pour écrire des directives précises en français. J’ai beau avoir appris à tricoter de ma grand-mère en français, mais je me suis débrouillée toute seule pour apprendre à lire les patrons en anglais. Si quelque veux le traduire je serais reconnaissante comme tout!

I’ve been geeking over spinning wheels for a decade now and have wanted a pullover featuring little saxonies for about that long. I opted for a fingering weight yarn because I wanted to keep the wheels small but still detailed, and also because of my ridiculous sock yarn stash (have I mentioned I’ve yet to knit socks?). I didn`t pay enough attention to yarn amounts, so the amount listed is a guesstimate.







Sizes :

30.75 (34.5, 38, 42)  - I am wearing size 30, with approx. 2 inches of negative ease at the bust. Sleeves are also a bit tight on me.

Yarn and gauge :

Fingering weight yarn with  a gauge of 26 sts and 34 rows per 4 inches.

I used Sweet Georgia Sock Love in Tumbled Stone for my main colour (MC) and Malabrigo Sock in Natural for my contrast colour (CC). There was a slight difference in gauge between the two yarns so I actually suggest to pick a brand and stick with it for the whole sweater.

For the smallest size, I used less than 2 skeins of the CC and less than 2 skeins of the MC. For the other sizes I suggest at least 2-3 skeins of each colour. I’m sorry I can’t be more precise!

Needles:

US 3 and US 4 circular needles. I love my tiny Hiya Hiya 9” circular needles for knitting sleeves, but of course magic loop or DPNs will also do.

Abbreviations:

MC = main colour. This will be the colour of the body and upper arms.
CC = contrast colour. This will be the colour of the ribbing and the spinning wheels.
K1tbl = knit 1 though back loop (insert needle from the front into the back of the stitch and knit)
M1L = make 1 left (pick up strand between stitches by inserting needle from the front and knit through the back loop)
M1R = make 1 right (pick up strand between stitches by inserting needle from the back and knit through the front loop)

Notes:

  • If the sizes seem a bit small keep in mind that they are to allow for the negative ease at the bust.
  • This sweater is knit bottom up so it's not ideal for trying on as you knit. Please note the measurements for sleeve and body length - I have a long torso and arms for my height so the suggested lengths may not be right for your own measurements. Measure twice, knit once (I did not do this, and had to lengthen the sleeves after the fact… if you squint you can see the wonky spots where I had to pick up stitches and add a couple inches!)

Body:

With CC and using US 3 needles, cast on 100 (112, 124) stitches, place marker (PM), cast on another 100(112, 124) stitches, PM and join to work in the round. = 200 (224, 248, 272 sts).

Set-up round for ribbing : *(K2, P2) to end of round.
Next round: begin twisted rib : *(K2TBL, P2) repeat to end of round.

Continue in twisted rib for 3.5 ( 3.5, 3.75, 4) inches.

Next round: change to US needles and work in stockinette stitch for 1 inch.

Begin colourwork:
Next round: attach MC and for ROW 1: *(k1 MC, k1 CC), repeat from * to the end of round. ROW 2: *(k1 CC, k1 MC), repeat from * to the end of round. Repeat these two rows 2 more time.

Next round: Break off CC, and knit 1 round even with MC.

Next round: Begin shaping with a decrease row: *(k2, SSK, knit 2 4 sts before marker, K2tog, knit 2). Repeat from * once more. 4 sts decreased in round.

Repeat decrease row every 7th row 5 more times. Knit 6 rounds even.

Next round, time to start increasing again: *(k2, M1L, knit to 2 stitches before marker, M1R, k2). Repeat from * once more. 4 sts increased in round.

Repeat decrease row every 7th row 5 more times. You should be back to having 200 (224, 248, 272 sts).

Knit even for 4 inches.

Next: Seperate for for front and back: *knit to 7 (8, 8, 9) stitches before marker, bind off 14 (16, 16, 18) stitches, repeat from *.  You should have 86 (96, 108, 118) sts for each front and back. Put aside and cast on for the sleeves.

Sleeves:

With CC, cast on 56 (60, 68, 72) sts using size US 3 needles, place marker and join to work in the round.
Set-up round for ribbing : *(K2, P2) to end of round.
NEXT ROUND: begin twisted rib : *(K2TBL, P2) repeat to end of round. Continue in twisted rib for 6”.

Next row: Change to US 4 needles and work in stockinette for 1 inche.
Increase row : k1, M1L, knit to 1 stitch before marker, M1R, K1. 58(62, 70, 74) sts.
Knit 2 rows even.

Next round: attach MC and for ROW 1: *(k1 MC, k1 CC) to the end of round. ROW 2: *(k1 CC, k1 MC) to the end of round. Repeat these two rows 1 more time.
Next round: Break off CC, and knit 1 round even with MC.

Repeat increase row every 10th row  5 (7, 9, 9 ) more times. 68 (76, 88, 92) sts. Work even until sleeve measures desired measurement from underarm to wrist. My sleeve is 15 inches.

Next row: *knit to 7 (8, 8, 9) stitches before marker, bind off 14 (16, 16, 18) stitches, repeat from *. Place remaining 54 (60, 72, 76) sts on holder and set aside.

Joining the sleeves to the body and knitting the yoke:

With the strand of yarn still attached to the main body, knit 86 stitches across front, knit 54 (60, 72, 76) sts from one sleeve, 86 (96, 98, 116 ) sts from back piece, and remaining  54 (60, 72, 76) sts from the other sleeve. You now have 280 ( 312, 360, 388) sts on the needles.

Size 30.75 and Size 38 only :  knit 2(4) rounds even. 280(360) sts.
Size 34.5 only:    knit 1 round, increasing 8 stitches evenly spaced. 320 sts. Next row: knit 1 round even.
Size 42 only:  knit 1 round, increasing 12 stitches evenly. 400 stitches. Next row: knit 4 rounds even.

All sizes: knit 5 rounds even, then begin spinning wheel chart.Work rows 1-20 of spinning wheel chart.




Working towards the neckline:

Next round - decrease round: *k3(3,2,2), k2tog, repeat from * to end of round.
Work 12(15,16,16) rounds even.

Next round – decrease round : *k2(2,1,1), k2tog, repeat from * to end of round.

Work 6 (14, 15, 16) rounds even.

Now. This is where I did some short row shaping to bring the back neck up a bit. I'm going to try my best to explain my favourite method:
Place a marker in the center top of each shoulder.  Pick which side you want to be the back of the sweater. You will work the short rows between the two markers on that side.
Knit one round, passing the first marker and knitting up the the second marker. At the marker, wrap and turn.
Now that the wrong side is facing you, purl your way back to the first marker. Wrap and turn.
Now that the right side is facing you, knit up to 4 stitches before the marker (4 stitches before the first wrap and turn). Wrap and turn.
With wrong side facing again, purl back to 4 stitches before the marker (again, that's 4 stitches before the wrap and turn), wrap and turn.
Work back and forth like this, wrapping and turning always 4 stitches before the last time, until you have raised the back of the neck to your liking – I did it for approximately 10 rows of knitting, or 1.5”.
With right side facing you, knit 2 rounds, picking up wrapped stitches as you go.

This web page describes a similar technique and probably does so much better than I do, so take a look if I've only muddle things up.

Next row: *k1(1,1,2), k2tog, repeat from * to end of round.

Change to US3 needles (or don’t - I didn’t!) and work in twisted rib for 1 inch, binding off loosely. Seam underarms. Block.




Like my other “patterns”, Fileuse is free, because:
a)    I’m terrible at writing down directions;
b)    I have no test knitters and only have experience knitting my size;
However, should you knit Fileuse with reasonable success (in other words – I didn’t lead you down a path of knitter’s frustration and tears with my blathering and pitiful math) and you feel like opening your wallet, closet, or pantry after all is said and done, I’d like to make a suggestion. See, the weather here in Canada is getting wonderfully cool and crisp, and while part of me is giddy with anticipation (pumpkin scones! wool everywhere all the time!), I also start to get really anxious for the less fortunate who will soon be outnumbering the available shelters. If you feel so inclined, please consider making a donation of time, money or items to a charity helping the homeless. If you’re in Toronto or the GTA, here is a list of items in need at the Covenant House and here is one for a variety of other organisations including soup kitchens and drop-in shelters .  A quick Google search should provide similar information for organisations in your part of the world.

Next week I’ll be posting the pattern for matching fingerless gloves, if I can get around to photographing them in natural light - I've been getting home from work later and later and daylight is already scarce after 7!